For most hobby printing, start with PLA, move to PETG when parts need to be tougher or survive a bit of heat, and choose ASA for parts that live outdoors. ABS, nylon and polycarbonate are stronger and more heat-resistant, but they need an enclosure and more tuning.
The chart below compares the common FDM filaments side by side: nozzle and bed temperatures, whether you need an enclosure, drying, strength, heat and UV resistance, how easy each is to print and what it is typically used for. Temperatures are starting ranges: every brand and colour is a little different, so check the label on the spool and print a temperature tower.
Filament Comparison Chart
| Filament | Nozzle (°C) | Bed (°C) | Enclosure | Drying | Strength | Heat resistance | UV / outdoor | Ease | Nozzle | Typical uses |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 190–220 | 50–60 (or unheated) | No | 45–50 °C, 4–6 h | Stiff and strong but brittle; snaps rather than bends | Low: softens from about 55–60 °C (a hot car will warp it) | Poor | Easiest | Brass | Prototypes, models, figures, jigs that stay cool, cosplay |
| PLA+ / tough PLA | 200–230 | 50–65 | No | 45–50 °C, 4–6 h | Tougher, less brittle than PLA (recipe varies by brand) | Low: similar to PLA | Poor | Easy | Brass | Functional parts that need a bit more impact resistance |
| PETG | 220–250 | 70–85 | Nodraught-free helps | 60–65 °C, 4–6 h | Tough, slightly flexible, good layer bonding | Medium: softens from about 70–80 °C | OKbetter than PLA | Easy–moderate | Brass | Brackets, enclosures, outdoor-ish parts, containers |
| ABS | 230–260 | 90–110 | Yes | 70–80 °C, 4 h | Tough, impact-resistant, machinable and acetone-smoothable | Good: softens from about 95–100 °C | Pooryellows, goes brittle | Moderate–hard (warps) | Brass | Car interior parts, enclosures, parts that need acetone smoothing |
| ASA | 240–260 | 90–110 | Yes | 70–80 °C, 4 h | Similar to ABS | Good: softens from about 95–100 °C | Good | Moderate–hard (warps) | Brass | Outdoor parts: garden, car exterior, signs, mounts |
| TPU (95A–98A) | 210–235 | 40–60 | No | 45–55 °C, 4–6 h | Flexible, rubbery, almost unbreakable | Medium: stays flexible, softens around 60–80 °C (grade dependent) | OK | Moderate (print slowly, 15–30 mm/s) | Brass | Phone cases, seals, feet, bumpers, belts, gaskets |
| Nylon (PA6, PA12) | 240–270 | 70–100 | Recommended | 70–80 °C, 6–12 h (must be dry) | Very tough, wear-resistant, slightly flexible | Good: typically 70–90 °C+ unfilled, varies by grade | OK | Hard (absorbs water, warps) | Brass or hardened | Gears, hinges, living hinges, wear parts, clips |
| Polycarbonate (PC) | 260–300 | 100–120 | Yes | 70–80 °C, 6 h | Very strong and impact-resistant | Very good: softens from about 110–130 °C | OKcan yellow | Hard (very hot, warps) | Brass (all-metal hotend) | Strong brackets, heat-exposed parts, transparent guards |
| Carbon-fibre filled (PLA-CF, PETG-CF, PA-CF) | Base + 5–10 | As base polymer | As base | As base polymer | Stiffer and more stable, but often less tough than the unfilled base | As base; PA-CF and PC-CF grades are the best | As base | Easy–hard (as base) | Hardened steel (abrasive) | Stiff, light, dimensionally stable parts, drone frames, jigs |
Heat figures are approximate softening points (around the heat deflection temperature); parts under load sag at lower temperatures. Drying times and temperatures are typical; follow the filament maker’s data where given.
Which Filament Should I Use?
| I need… | Try | Why |
|---|---|---|
| My first prints, models and prototypes | PLA | Easiest to print, cheap, crisp detail. Keep it out of hot cars and sunny windows. |
| A functional part that may get knocked | PETG or PLA+ | PETG bends before it breaks and handles warmth better. |
| Outdoors in sun and rain | ASA (or PETG) | ASA resists UV best. PETG is a simpler, cheaper option for parts that are not in full sun all day. |
| Inside a car or near a motor | ASA, ABS or PC | PLA and PETG can soften in a parked car in summer. |
| Flexible, grippy or shock-absorbing | TPU | A direct-drive extruder makes it much easier. |
| Gears, hinges and sliding parts | Nylon (or PA-CF) | Tough and slippery. Must be dried and kept dry. |
| Maximum stiffness, low weight | CF-filled PETG or nylon | Needs a hardened nozzle. |
| Something that touches food | None by default | See the food-safety notes below. Use a food-safe container instead where you can. |
How to Use This Chart
- Start in the middle of the temperature range, then print a temperature tower. Too cold gives weak layers and under-extrusion; too hot gives stringing and droop.
- Tune retraction and pressure advance per filament. PETG and TPU string more than PLA. Use the Retraction Settings calculator and the Linear / Pressure Advance calculator when you switch materials.
- Strength is mostly design and settings. Walls (perimeters) add more strength than infill. See how infill and walls trade off in the Print Strength vs Infill calculator.
- Dry the hygroscopic ones. Nylon, TPU, PETG and PC absorb moisture from the air. Wet filament pops and hisses, strings badly and prints weak parts.
- Shrinkage varies. ABS, ASA and nylon shrink more than PLA. Scale critical parts with the Print Shrinkage & Scale calculator and size holes with 3D Print Hole Compensation.
Food safety: no filament makes a printed part food-safe on its own. Even when the raw plastic is approved for food contact, layer lines trap food and bacteria and cannot be cleaned properly, brass nozzles can contain lead, and colourants and additives vary. For anything that touches food repeatedly, use a food-contact-rated filament with a stainless steel nozzle, keep contact short and cold, or seal the part with a food-safe coating rated for that use. Simplest of all: use the print as a shape or mould, not the food surface.
Fumes: ABS and ASA release styrene and fine particles as they print, and other filaments also emit ultrafine particles. Print them in an enclosure, ideally with a filter or vented to outside, and do not print in a bedroom.
Frequently Asked Questions
PLA. It prints at about 190–220 °C, needs little or no bed heat, warps very little and does not need an enclosure. It is the best choice for learning and for models and prototypes that will not get hot.
PETG is tougher rather than stronger. PLA is stiffer and can take a slightly higher load before it breaks, but it snaps suddenly. PETG bends and absorbs impacts, and it handles heat better, so it is usually the better choice for functional parts.
ASA is the best common choice for parts in direct sun: it resists UV and heat. PETG is a reasonable, easier alternative for parts that are outdoors but not in full sun. PLA softens in summer heat and degrades outdoors.
Yes, in practice. ABS and ASA shrink as they cool and warp or split between layers in a draught. An enclosure keeps the air warm and still, and it helps contain the styrene fumes.
Yes. Carbon and glass fibre filled filaments are abrasive and can wear out a brass nozzle quickly, changing its size and ruining print quality. Use a hardened steel or similar wear-resistant nozzle.
Not as a printed part. Some PLA is made from food-contact-approved resin, but layer lines trap bacteria and brass nozzles can contain lead. Do not use prints for repeated food contact without a suitable food-safe coating.
Related Calculators and Charts
Temperature, drying and heat figures are typical ranges from common filament makers’ datasheets and are starting points only; brands, colours and additives change them. Check the spool label and the maker’s technical data sheet, and print a temperature tower for each new spool.